I could hear my Australian visitors huffing and puffing behind me, cursing at me under their breath. Meanwhile, I was chirping “it will be worth it once we get up there”. I knew I wasn’t wrong, I had been to the core area of the aptly named Enchantment Lakes before. It is worth toiling up the steep section, known as Aasgard pass, which delivers 2000 feet of elevation gain in just three-quarters of a mile.